UDDER NONSENSE Kicking off the year on a low. “There’s cost cutting, then there’s simply bad value,” I wrote of The Cow in D4. Previously Kevin Arundel’s Chop House, and lauded back in the day by Anthony Bourdain, a surf ‘n turf with four prawns, a budgie-sized chicken breast, and a shellfish-less seafood board of lesser padding all added up to a disgruntled food critic plus a quick exit. thecow.ie