Climbing up the Victorian staircase, with its fine bannisters and historic photos adorning the walls, the evidence of traditional craftsmanship was visible at every turn. I hadn’t been in 17 South Great George’s Street since Dylan McGrath opened Taste at Rustic 10 years ago, a Japanese restaurant above his then Rustic Stone. Part of the expansive George’s Street Arcade spanning the corner of George’s and Exchequer Streets, the Gothic-style development was launched in 1881 as South City Markets and Dublin’s first shopping centre.