Restaurant review: ‘The first surprise at this rural former pub is the chic interior – the second is the menu’

I’d forgotten about the tame fox my cousins kept until I saw the cocktail – named The Fox and featuring Valentia Island vermouth, tonic and orange – listed on the menu at An Síbín, Katherine Murphy’s restaurant and wine bar in Lauragh, the sunlight-dappled backdrop to the summer holidays of my childhood.