Months-old Toronto restaurant totally revamps concept and already plans to do it again

A restaurant in one of  Toronto's most vibrant culinary neighbourhoods just completely overhauled its entire concept, and it's already planning to do it all over again. When the plans for prolific chef Hemant Bhagwani's latest Little Italy restaurant concept were unveiled in the spring of 2025, it's safe to say that the idea left diners with a couple of question marks . At the time, it was called Oro Luxury Dining , and Bhagwani described it in terms of a television show: the restaurant would shapeshift according to different "seasons," with the menus, "episodes," regularly rotating within the concept. I've seen my fair share of restaurants, but this was a first, even for me, and I remained curious as to how this idea for a restaurant would translate in practice. Now, we finally have our answer. Oro Luxury Dining is out, and, as of January, Naari Thai BBQ is in. With the new year, a new season premiered. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Naari Thai BBQ (@naarithai) Where Oro served dishes that creatively blended Mediterranean and Indian cuisines — Bhagwani's specialty —Naari is all about, as its name would imply, Thai-style barbecue. The menu is populated with familiar Thai favourites, like green curry and Tom Yum soup, but its real crowning achievement is its selection of shareables and street foods. Dishes like sticky rice short rib tacos, chicken pandan and duck kra pao are just a few of the plentiful options. Oro, or should I say Naari, isn't the first Toronto restaurant to play the game of conceptual musical chairs lately ( MIMI Chinese , Amano Trattoria and Vinoteca Pompette are just a few to do something similar), but it is the first to have metamorphosis baked into its very nature. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Naari Thai BBQ (@naarithai) While Bhagwani's idea for the restaurant seemed ambitious at the time (and, indeed, still does), its first thematic overhaul reveals a clever strategy to mould the challenges of the local restaurant industry into strengths. Toronto's food scene is notorious for its high turnover rates, and a heightened reliance on social media for marketing purposes ends up, more often than not, giving newer restaurants, over tried-and-true establishments, a boost. To create a restaurant whose sole purpose is reinvention means that Bhagwani and the team can regularly revel in that "new restaurant" buzz, while responding relatively quickly to shifting consumer trends. Cuisines can be seasonal, trendy, whatever works in any given moment. Will the concept prove successful in the long term? As with any experimental format, only time will tell, but it certainly is an inventive way to keep things fresh along College Street. Naari Thai BBQ is located at 501 College St.