Wanted in Rome
Inside Rome's most overlooked piazza and the legend of its mysterious gateway Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, located in the heart of Rione Esquilino, next to Termini station, is the widest piazza in Rome. The piazza was built around 1870, when Turin was the capital, which is why its style is reminiscent of Turin itself. Despite being characterised by important and beautiful porches in the Umbertine style, the gardens of Nicola Caliopari and other complex architecture, it has more recently become the multiethnic heart of Rome, transforming the Esquilino district into a meeting point between Roman tradition and cultures from around the world. Here, multiethnicity meets history, as people from different countries and backgrounds have marked the territory. It can be noted simply from past photographs that over the years the place has deteriorated without anyone to preserve its beauty, mainly because people continue to leave visible signs of their presence in everyday habits, in the sounds of multiple languages one notices even just crossing the park, and in small, informal customs. At the same time, it is important to note that, setting aside some aspects, the square itself remains a deeply vibrant and dynamic space where past and present continually overlap. The symbolic remains of ancient Rome and the complex architecture of this place form the backdrop to what is a complex urban reality. One of the main attractions found here is surely the Alchemical Door, a monument built between 1655 and 1681 by Massimiliano Savelli Palombara within his residence, Villa Palombara. Another name given to the door is the "Door of the Skies", because the message it holds can lead to knowledge that transcends conventional understanding. This door is the only surviving one of the five doors that were part of the Villa. Today it can be admired in the northern corner of the gardens inside the Piazza, but originally it was located about a hundred metres from its current position, along a perimeter wall of Villa Palombara, which was rebuilt in 1888. The charm of it, however, comes not only from its historical value, but also from the mystery and the legend behind it. The door is associated with the legend of a mysterious pilgrim, most likely the alchemist Francesco Giuseppe Borri, who was hosted by the Villa's owner while searching for a particular herb in the gardens that could transform metals into gold. The following morning, he disappeared, leaving only some pure gold pieces and papers filled with notes containing esoteric symbols. The owner of the Villa was intrigued by these indecipherable signs, which were later engraved on the door in the hope that someone passing by would reveal the secret behind them. The writings in Latin, such as "Si sedes non is", read from left to right and vice versa, carry a double meaning: "if you sit down you do not move forward" or "if you do not sit down you move forward", addressed to those who wish to search for the elixir of long life. The door is nowadays called "the magic door" due to the mysterious presence of gold and the episode of the pilgrim's disappearance. Between past and present, mystery and gold, the intriguing legend behind the Alchemical Door could teach visitors and residents alike that hidden transformations are always possible. Just as the alchemist once found a way to turn metal into gold, one might hope that this same spirit could help restore the square itself. Today, visiting Piazza Vittorio can reveal signs of abandonment and complexity, but knowing its history and legends, one can always hope for change. Perhaps the message engraved on the door is also addressed to the future: even a place marked by time could be transformed, reclaiming the beauty that once defined it. Ph: Only Fabrizio / Shutterstock.com
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